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Varanasi
Varanasi during Holi is an experience like no other. Arriving by boat, we navigated the sacred waters of the Ganges to reach our hotel, located on the riverbanks and serving as our base for two nights. From the moment we stepped onto the ghats, we were swept into the frenzied energy of this ancient city.
The streets pulsed with life—rickshaws weaving through chaotic alleys, the scent of incense mingling with the aroma of street food, and a kaleidoscope of colours as markets bustled with vendors selling everything from marigold garlands to vibrant powders for the upcoming celebrations. Cows and dogs wandered freely, moving through the crowds as if they were part of the city’s rhythm.
As dusk fell, we witnessed the mesmerizing Ganga Aarti, a nightly prayer ritual where flames danced to the sound of rhythmic chanting. Monks, their bodies dusted in white ash, sat in deep meditation near Shiva temples, while devotees offered prayers, flowers, and donations, seeking blessings from the divine.
That same night, under the glow of the full moon, we watched a massive bonfire marking the symbolic burning of Holika, a woman from Hindu mythology, and a child, signifying the victory of good over evil. The following day, the air exploded with colour as the Holi festival began. Locals and visitors alike embraced the spirit of joy, covering each other in vibrant hues of pink, green, red, blue, and yellow. Laughter filled the air, strangers became friends, and the city pulsed with an intoxicating sense of celebration.
In the evening, we returned to the Ganges for a boat ride, passing the 87 ghats that line the river. Some were alive with activity, while others stood silent, witnessing centuries of devotion. We drifted past the revered Manikarnika Ghat, where the funeral pyres burn continuously, consuming nearly 400 bodies a day. According to Hindu belief, to be cremated here is to attain moksha—liberation from the cycle of rebirth.
Varanasi is not just a city; it is an immersion into the soul of India, where life, death, and spirituality exist in an extraordinary harmony.
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Agra
The second part of our adventure took us to Agra, a city that holds the rare distinction of being home to three UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Our focus was, of course, the breathtaking Taj Mahal—one of the most iconic monuments in the world.
Built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the Taj Mahal is an architectural masterpiece that took over 20 years to complete, with construction beginning in 1632. The monument is a symbol of eternal love, crafted from luminous white marble and inlaid with semi-precious stones sourced from across Asia. The intricate floral patterns and calligraphy adorning its walls are masterpieces of Mughal craftsmanship, showcasing a blend of Persian, Islamic, and Indian architectural influences.
Our first visit was in the evening before sunset, when the light played beautifully on the marble surface, shifting in colour from soft gold to cool blue. The Taj Mahal complex is vast, spanning acres, with four impressive gates leading to a stunning arrangement of red sandstone buildings, mosques, gardens, and the grand white marble mausoleum itself.
The next morning, we returned at sunrise, hoping for fewer crowds and the chance to capture the Taj Mahal in its most magical light. Arriving early, we were able to take some of the most iconic shots before the waves of visitors entered.
Our stay at The Oberoi Amarvilas made the experience even more extraordinary. With rooms offering uninterrupted views of the Taj Mahal, the hotel itself was a masterpiece of architecture, exuding the grandeur of a royal palace. The deep cobalt blue swimming pool provided the perfect oasis to relax after exploring, and the exquisite dining options, paired with handcrafted cocktails, made every meal an experience.
Agra was a journey through history, art, and sheer opulence, offering a glimpse into the splendour of the Mughal era. Walking through the gates of the Taj Mahal, witnessing its changing hues throughout the day, and staying in luxury reminiscent of royalty made this an unforgettable chapter of our travels
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Ranthambore
Ever since I was little, I was fascinated by Indian wildlife. Inspired by Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book, I would watch it on repeat, captivated by the adventures of Mowgli in the dense Indian jungles.
The next leg of our adventure took us to the legendary Ranthambore National Park, one of India’s most renowned wildlife reserves. Over four nights at Sher Bagh, we had the opportunity to embark on eight safaris into the heart of this extraordinary landscape.
Ranthambore’s story is one of transformation. Once the private hunting grounds of the Maharajas of Jaipur, the park is now a sanctuary for India’s most iconic predator—the Bengal tiger. With its dramatic ruins, ancient temples, and towering Ranthambore Fort dating back to the 10th century, the park is a place where history and nature intertwine.
Our first drive brought us face-to-face with one of the young males of Riddhi, a well-known tigress. He was resting just 15 feet away, posing beautifully before suddenly springing into action, attempting to hunt a wild boar. In a dramatic chase, he drove the boar into the lakes, narrowly missing his catch.
We then had a breathtaking encounter with Noor, one of Ranthambore’s oldest and most respected tigresses. She appeared out of nowhere, strolling confidently alongside the vehicles, passing within feet of our Gypsy before disappearing into the golden-lit forest.
Exploring the central lakes, we found ourselves in Riddhi’s territory, home to her three sub-adult cubs. The calls of sambar deer echoed through the forest, hinting at the presence of predators. Sure enough, we soon saw Riddhi, who had made a kill. Her two sons were close by, and we watched as she led them toward the carcass. The cubs played excitedly jumping, stalking each other, and even chasing a massive crocodile before cooling off in the lake. It was one of those moments that felt too surreal to be true.
In an extraordinary twist, Riddhi and her sub-adult cubs were near Arrowhead, another dominant tigress, and her three sub-adult cubs. We watched an intense territorial scuffle unfold as Riddhi clashed with one of Arrowhead’s male cubs, a raw display of power and survival in the wild.
Later, we found Arrowhead and her cubs resting in a picturesque gorge, shaded by fig and banyan trees. One of the cubs posed perfectly on a rock next to a waterfall, a scene straight out of my childhood dreams.
Our luck extended beyond big cats. We had incredible sightings of sloth bears on the move, as well as large herds of spotted deer and sambar deer. Chai tea breaks in the wilderness turned into special moments as birds gathered around us, eager for a few spilled crumbs.
Sújan Sher Bagh was the perfect base—an elegant blend of the old-world charm of Maharajas’ hunting camps and modern luxury. The warm hospitality, world-class food, and beautifully designed accommodations made our stay truly special.
One of the most inspiring moments came when we spotted Charger, a massive male tiger and the father of Riddhi’s cubs. Though hidden in the vegetation, his powerful presence was undeniable. We never saw him in his full glory, but that only fuels my excitement for a future return—to perhaps witness him or his now-grown cubs ruling the land.
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Jawai
Our three-night stay at Sújan Jawai was a truly remarkable adventure, one that immersed us in the unique beauty and wildlife of Rajasthan. Nestled within the rolling granite hills of the Jawai region, the lodge offers an incredible vantage point for spotting the elusive leopards that call this terrain home. These hills, with their rugged cliffs and rocky crevices, provide a sanctuary for these magnificent creatures, all within a landscape that is both serene and dramatic.
The relationship between the local community and the leopards is strikingly harmonious. While leopards occasionally take livestock, the local Rabari herders have a long-standing understanding with the animals. Compensation for lost livestock is provided, and as a result, human-wildlife conflict is minimal. The Rabari people, known for their vibrant clothing and traditional lifestyle, maintain a deep respect for the leopards, seeing them as sacred beings, integral to the land’s spirit.
During our stay, we were fortunate to witness incredible leopard sightings, including that of the resident leopardess, Fanela. Heavily pregnant, she remained in the rocky caves and crevices, just a stone’s throw from the luxury lodge, where we watched her as she took refuge in the landscape. Fanela’s presence reminded us of the delicate coexistence in nature and the way these animals thrive within the region’s rugged terrain.
A highlight of our adventure was a fun and unforgettable outing on horseback with the stunning Marwari horses. This gorgeous breed, native to Rajasthan, is known for its unique appearance and endurance. Riding through the breathtaking landscape on these majestic horses was an experience we’ll always remember. The Marwari horses, with their distinctive inward-curved ears and graceful stride, provided an authentic and exhilarating way to explore the rocky hills and lush valleys of the region, offering us a different perspective on the natural beauty around us.
The landscape around Sújan Jawai is not only home to leopards but also teems with birdlife, from soaring eagles to smaller, colourful species flitting around the waterholes.
The nearby villages are rich in culture, with women carrying fodder, water, and tending to livestock in their stunning, brightly coloured dresses. The local attire is as vibrant as the landscape, with women adorned in intricate jewellery and men donning striking white cloths and red turbans. The traditional garments are a testament to the culture’s deep-rooted connection to the land and its heritage.
We were also able to visit some of the region’s sacred temples, which add to the area’s spiritual and historical charm. The stunning lakes scattered across the landscape provide a peaceful backdrop to the daily life of the people, while also offering a refuge for local wildlife.
Throughout our journey, we encountered three different leopards, each with its own personality and charm. As we departed the lodge, we were even treated to a final surprise—a new male leopard, a rare and exciting sighting that capped off our unforgettable stay.
Sújan Jawai and the surrounding landscape left a lasting impression on us. We are already looking forward to returning to explore these breathtaking hills further, to witness more wildlife, and to continue learning about the fascinating relationships between the people and the land they share with the leopards. This is a place where nature and culture come together in perfect harmony, and it’s an experience we can’t wait to relive.
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Daniel Bailey, ORYX Photo Tour Leader
Daniel Bailey is a Photo Tour Leader for ORYX private and scheduled departures. To view Daniel’s small group photo tours, click here.
To have Daniel join you on your tailor-made tour as your private Photo Tour Leader, please email private@oryxphoto.com
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