Svalbard – Winter Photo Expedition with Daniel Bailey

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My journey began in Cape Town, South Africa, from where we flew to Oslo, Norway, and then onward to Longyearbyen – the gateway to the Arctic. We spent our first night at the Radisson Blu Polar Hotel, savouring the anticipation of the days to come. The following morning, our Svalbard Winter Expedition officially began.

Boarding the MS Virgo for our Svalbard Winter Photo Expedition, we entered the next phase of our adventure. This purpose-built vessel accommodates just 12 photographic guests, offering an intimate and immersive experience. It was a warm reunion with the familiar crew and our expert expedition leaders, Deanna and Eric, as we set off to explore the breathtaking Svalbard archipelago for the next nine days.

This was the third scheduled winter departure of the season – a rare and exhilarating opportunity for photographers. Our main focus was capturing the surreal Arctic landscapes under the ever-changing light. With the ethereal glow of the Arctic sun hovering near the horizon, we were treated to sunrises and sunsets that bathed the snow-covered mountains, glaciers, and frozen fjords in dreamy pastels of gold, pink, and blue.

We ventured into the western and northern regions of Spitsbergen and pushed above the 80th parallel into the expansive ice pack, in search of the hardy Arctic wildlife that calls this frozen wilderness home.

Wildlife sightings were few, as is often the case in such remote conditions, but each encounter was unforgettable. We observed walruses, including young calves, lounging on ice floes in all weather conditions. From the ship’s bridge, we spotted several species of seals – bearded, ringed, and harp – gliding through the icy waters.

Among the most thrilling sightings was the Ivory Gull – one of the rarest birds on Earth. With a global population estimated at fewer than 10,000 individuals, these elusive gulls are mostly found in high Arctic regions, including Greenland, Canada, and Svalbard. Spotting one in flight against the icy backdrop was a true highlight, made all the more special by the knowledge of its rarity and resilience in such an extreme environment.

This year, the ice formations were particularly magical. We embraced the opportunity to photograph their incredible shapes and textures, using light and creativity to highlight their unique beauty. However, navigating the archipelago proved challenging due to strong northerly winds that limited our access and visibility in certain areas. With new regulations in place, we took great care not to disturb the ice or the vital habitats of the seals and their primary predator – the elusive polar bear.

We spent two full days exploring the polar ice cap and pack ice, hoping to find and photograph polar bears. One night, we even anchored directly on the ice and woke the next morning to walk across the frozen surface beside the ship – a surreal experience, standing so far north on our planet.

Despite our determined efforts and constant scanning from the bridge, we were unable to locate any polar bears on this expedition. Though it was disappointing, this is the nature of true wilderness exploration – wildlife sightings can never be guaranteed. Still, what we were gifted on this journey was extraordinary.

One unforgettable evening, we were bathed in the golden light of a sunset that seemed to last forever. The skies melted into the sea in hues of fire and ice, creating a photographer’s dream. We spent hours at the stern of the ship, practicing our tracking skills with the fulmars – agile seabirds believed in legend to be the spirits of lost sailors. Their graceful flight and the mythology that surrounds them added a mystical layer to our voyage through the Arctic.

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