They say it's about buffalo and lions, but really, it is so much more.
The Mababe Depression (which I have taken the liberty of renaming 'The Mababe Kingdom') is a place of rhythms and patterns. It's a record of times gone by and a vision of times to come. This wild space, though not exempt from historic human impact, has recently reclaimed its natural heritage. The earthquake of 2017-18 brought water back to this ancient lake bed, called the Mababe depression today.
It has endured severe drought, but its people and wildlife held onto their roots. Sure, some things changed, and there was much suffering, but visiting today, I found a desert transformed. A force of nature altered Botswana's flat landscape just enough to bring back the water.
As the water fills the parched depression, it brings waves of animals—elephants, frogs, squirrels, sable, eland, rhône, leopards, cheetahs, birds, and yes, the buffalo and lions. The quelea grace the skies once again after a period of absence—millions of tiny birds rolling like bait balls of sardines, creating elaborate shapes as they try to outsmart the falcons and hawks hunting them. Watching their art fill the sky transports your imagination as far as you allow. These tiny creatures leave miniature art in circles on the ground too. In the fallen grass where they forage for seeds, they create equidistant and perfect circles the size of their circumference as they hurriedly feed before taking off simultaneously in a cloud, never still for long.
Mababe boasts the largest herd of buffalo in Africa. As a photographer you eagerly try to be 'THE Communicator' of this spectacular scene, only to surrender to their rhythmic procession and simply sit and watch them roll past you in a perfectly ordered seemingly endless movement- In to drink from feeding beyond the tree line and back out of the depression. They lose lives to the lions regularly, but the rhythm continues as if the earth commands it.
The lions have their rhythm too—males patrol, mothers hunt to feed their young. Lions face their own challenges; hunting success is low, prey is plentiful but strong in numbers. These golden boys, brothers, occupy prime territory, however, just as they took it from the previous dominant male lions, they can lose it too. They face competition from a northern pride—young sub-adults, fierce and full of pride.
I've been to many places that have moved me to share their incredible natural beauty. One might feel that they will run out of new magic, but here, between the Chobe and Savuti parks, is a concession proudly guarded by the Mababe villagers for its magical, life-sustaining water.
Flying over the Mababe Kingdom reveals its unique value. All around the ancient lake bed, now blessed with water once again, is a desert-like landscape. Across the new marsh, the earth is tattooed with patterns created by the animals—each with its own unique effect. Large, visible elephant trails and a thousand buffalo hooves flatten the common reed in their passage to water. Witnessing a wild dog hunt from the helicopter was perhaps the most insane sighting. The dogs have a well-oiled strategy of running prey into the marsh to exhaust them quicker. Being wild dogs, they feed on their prey in the water—mud and all. My images from this trip include some of the dirtiest animals ever!
Still, the buffalo leave the most marked effect on a visitor. They command your attention. Just as water brings life, light glorifies the natural world, and in the soft evening light of sunset, one loses oneself to the most prominent rhythm of the kingdom.
To me, the buffalo are the resilient ones, the epitome of endurance. Perhaps we don’t have to be the strongest, the loudest, or the most beautiful to endure and live a wonderful life.
Until I return, I thank the generations who have loved this place."
Please enjoy this selection of images captured by ORYX guest Jenny Brown during her unforgettable journey with Daniel Bailey. Thank you for sharing your outstanding portfolio — what an incredible adventure and a privilege to showcase your beautiful art work.
Images: Jenny Brown
Instagram: @jennyleighbrownwildlife
