Zambia – Exploring Kafue National Park

Part 1: “The Art of the Slow Safari” Kafue River

Our Zambian journey began in the wild heart of Kafue National Park, one of Africa’s largest and oldest protected areas. Covering a staggering 22,400 square kilometers, Kafue offers an unspoiled wilderness with a rich diversity of habitats—from open plains and miombo woodlands to lush riverine ecosystems.

We settled into Ila Safari Lodge, our tranquil base run by Green Safaris, perched on the banks of the mighty Kafue River. Designed with eco-conscious luxury in mind, Ila offered the perfect welcome: outside showers open to the sky, indulgent comfort, and a rhythm that matched the slow pulse of the river itself.

Days unfolded at an unhurried pace, embracing the concept of the "slow safari". Our time on the Kafue River was unforgettable—boating safaris that brought us eye-to-eye with hippos and crocodiles, and birds in stunning array. Half-collared kingfishers, African Finfoots, and other avian rarities delighted even the most seasoned birders.

Out on the water, we enjoyed lunches afloat, surrounded by silence and bird calls, the surface of the river reflecting the ever-changing sky. On land, huge herds of Cape buffalo stirred dust as they moved through the brush—lions never far behind, their presence felt. Elephants, too, were frequent companions, often spotted emerging directly from the water's edge.

We encountered a breathtaking variety of antelope—kudu, puku, and more—part of the park's vast mosaic of over 150 mammal species. Every evening brought new wonder: sundowners by the water, the magic light of sunset painting everything in gold, and the rising stars and new moon casting a serene glow over the landscape.

On our final night at Ila, lions walked through camp, their roars echoing under the stars—a spine-tingling farewell as we prepared to head onward to the Busanga Plains, the next chapter of our adventure.

Part 2: Into the Wild North: Busanga Plains – Kingdom of Lions

A short flight over the Kafue River took us to the remote northern reaches of the park. This place is wild. Shumba Camp is closed for seven months of the year—it becomes a lions’ den in the off-season. When it reopens, the lions remain.

We spent unforgettable days with the legendary locals: Alex, Mohawk, Princess, Killing Machine, Papyrus Pride and more. Lions leaping water channels, rolling in black cotton soil, golden eyes glowing in the morning mist.

But the wild magic didn’t stop there. We found a cheetah mother and son, who were soon interrupted by a pack of 10 wild dogs—sparking an electrifying chase across the plains. Oribi, wildebeest, and hundreds of red lechwe scattered in every direction. Pure adrenaline. Pure wilderness.

There were more rare sightings too: a serval slinking through the grass, spotted hyenas on patrol, and a majestic roan antelope—a seldom-seen giant with enormous ears and quiet power. The birdlife was equally incredible: elegant Wattled cranes, regal Grey crowned cranes, a Böhm’s bee-eater, and the striking Fülleborn’s longclaw—new lifers for many of us. We even witnessed fish eagles snatching jacana chicks from the surface of the water, while hippos erupted from the mud in surprise.

The landscapes were stunning—floodplain islands, waterways, woodlands. In the heart of it all, Shumba Camp.

Sunset drinks with hippos, lanterns flickering, the night sky above. We came for lions. We got lions—roaring through the night—and so much more.

No other vehicles, no noise—just wild, raw wilderness. Zambia has my whole heart. There’s simply no place like it. If you crave true wilderness, add Busanga to your bucket list—you won’t regret it.