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Zambia – Kafue National Park by ORYX Guest Jenny Brown

Kafue National Park

Zambia has always been one of my favorite wildlife destinations, and this trip did not disappoint. I was particularly inspired to visit the central area, explore the Kafue River, and ultimately witness the magic of the Busanga Plains.

Flying over the park gives you a true sense of its vastness. It was comforting to know that all the land visible from the small plane was protected wilderness.

The Kafue River is home to some unique and spectacular wildlife. Near Ila Lodge, the river is deeper and narrower than most I’ve explored, creating a perfect habitat for the elusive African Finfoot and the striking little Half-collared Kingfisher. As the water level drops in winter from its full summer height, it reveals a beautiful tangle of exposed tree roots—ideal nurseries for baby crocodiles, water monitors, insects, and small fish. These areas also become prime hunting and nesting grounds for a variety of bird species.

Of course, the river also plays host to its more well-known inhabitants—large crocodiles and impressive hippos! Cruising on the river offers a wonderful alternative perspective for viewing wildlife and connecting more intimately with their world.

On land near Ila Lodge, we encountered a very different ecosystem, most notably the Miombo forests. During our visit, they were dressed in their autumn hues—shimmering in shades of red and gold. These forests are part of the greater Miombo woodland that stretches all the way from Angola, and it was a privilege to experience even a small piece of such a vast ecosystem.

A lot of wildlife moves in and around these forests. We were lucky to spot buffalo, various antelope species, baboons, monkeys, and many birds. The surrounding bushveld is dense, making photography challenging, but with patience, the wild always reveals itself.

The Kafue River, one of the main tributaries to the Zambezi, holds immense socio-economic importance in Zambia. Unfortunately, it also faces challenges such as overfishing, destructive fishing methods, and the spread of invasive crayfish. Supporting conservation efforts by visiting the park was an important and rewarding part of this trip.

Ila Lodge is beautifully situated right on the river, with rooms that overlook the water. Wildlife is abundant, and the river is full of surprises at all hours of the day.

From the Kafue River, we traveled north by air to witness the landscape transition into the floodplains of Busanga. This space, shaped by seasonal floodwaters, is a truly unique pocket of paradise. Surrounded by expansive woodlands, it feels like peering through a secret window into another world.

The remaining water channels, carved out and maintained by hippos even after the floodwaters recede, are central to this ecosystem. I imagine when the rains return, the hippos follow familiar paths through newly flooded land—only to rediscover those same trails as dry, narrow channels in the next season. Their persistent habits create life-sustaining waterways for countless other species. From tadpoles to lions, the entire food chain flourishes here.

And speaking of lions—Busanga is their kingdom. We were spoiled with frequent sightings! Our hopes for incredible photography were already met in the first two days. But then came the real magic: lions crossing the water channels at sunrise, wet and muddy—a pride of 14, bathed in golden light. It was unforgettable.

And the surprises didn’t end there. A rarely-seen cheetah graced the plains for a few fleeting moments—only to be followed moments later by a calm procession of ten wild dogs. It was hard to choose what to focus on, but it’s never easy to pass up wild dogs on the move!

Dusk brought more drama: dust swirling as wildebeest, lechwe, and dogs moved across the open plains, puku whistling in the distance, and water channels glistening in the fading light. It felt surreal—your mind telling you it can’t be real, while your eyes insist that it is. That afternoon was pure magic.

And I haven’t even started on the sounds—so vivid and alive. From the calls of waterbirds and raptors to the cheerful chatter of kingfishers and larks, the plains are a feast for the senses.

While I absolutely love the experience of being on a big African river in a canoe or boat, the Busanga Plains—especially as presented by Wilderness Safaris—were breathtaking. (A mokoro in Busanga would be wild... just saying!)

Huge thanks to the ORYX Photo Tours team for planning and organising this incredible journey. Every aspect was seamless—from smooth airport transitions to expert care in the wild, and being thoroughly spoiled in camp. Thank you also to Green Safaris and Wilderness Safaris for your invaluable work in conservation, allowing people like me to witness the majesty of Earth's creation and share in the wonders of our planet.

To plan your own private safari to Zambia or have Daniel guide you on your tailor-made tour as your private Photo Tour Leader, please email private@oryxphoto.com

 

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